During your first few climbs, you have successfully learned all the basics from anchoring to pitching. Maybe you might have led a couple of climbs as well! But of these you might have noticed were small-scale rock walls that took one pitch to traverse. Then how about those large rock faces that seem impossible to complete with one pitch? For those, climbers use multiple pitches to climb. And this is what is known as a multi pitch climb.
So how to multi-pitch climb? While it might seem like setting up multiple pitches is not that difficult, it is used to climb more difficult terrains. Single pitches are quite easy to climb and be lowered with a belay but multi-pitch requires more advanced anchoring systems. That is why it is important to know the gears, knots, anchor system, and styles of multi-pitch climbing before getting into doing them.
Key Takeaways
- From ropes and carabiners to headlamps and food, there is a lot of gear that you require to go on a multi-pitch climb.
- The figure 8, clove and munter hitches are the essential knots for climbing, and it is important to know them for multi-pitch climbing.
- With the knots, the next thing to know is how to set up anchor and belay systems.
- There are two distinct styles of multi-pitch, either the two-rope or the caterpillar style.
- Multi-pitch rappelling uses two or more pitches to help lower the climber down to the ground.
Gears for Multi Pitch Climbing
Before getting to multi-pitch climbing, it is important to have all the gear and equipment ready. Preparing the equipment is key to any good climber and being prepared for any situation.
- Climbing ropes
- Climbing and approaching shoes
- Harness
- Chalk bag
- Belay devices, such as the GriGri
- Alpine quick draws
- 3 to 6 locking carabiners
- Food and water
- Prusik cord
- Slings
- Wilderness essentials like sunscreen, hand warmers, and headlamps
- Screw gates
Along with these, you will also want a backpack to carry all your gear. Some extra ropes and clothing are always good to have in case of an emergency. Camming devices and stoppers are also essential for rappelling. Most important of all, having maps and route descriptions will help you assess the situation and take the safer path. And of course, you will have to know how to use your gear as well!
Knots That You Must Know
One of the most important things is to know which knots you will be using for your climbs. While these knots are a must-know for climbers, the following knots will help your multi-pitch climbs even more! In this video, you can find out how to do the knot, and I will emphasize why the knots are important.
Well-dressed figure 8-stopper knot
One of the things that protect a climber is knowing the stopper knot. These are designed to make sure the rope is not sliding down the carabiner. Figure 8 is one such stopper knot that secures your rope safely to your harness. And to make sure that nothing stops it from coming undone, it has to be well dressed too!
Clove hitch
The clove hitch knot is a simple yet effective knot. It is easy to untie and the rope helps hold the knot in place. It is good to keep yourself anchored to the carabiner as a personal anchor to the belay device and also for when you are rappelling down the rock wall.
Munter hitch
While the clove hitch can provide you with safety while rappelling, the munter hitch will help when you are changing direction while rappelling. It is also known as the bi-directional knot. The hitch can flip around the carabiner so switching from left to right becomes easier. In snowy or slippery conditions, the munter hitch might be the only way you can use a belay system because you don’t have to open it to change the knot.
Anchor and Belay System for Multi Pitch Climbing
So, now that you know your gears and knots, it is time to start climbing. If you aren’t experienced in leading a climb, then let someone who has experience do it. You could do multi-pitch climbing by yourself, but it is advised that you take two to three members for it. This is because of the danger of climbing alone!
Belaying from above
Usually, the lead is tasked with setting up the first few pitches. But because multi-pitch climbing is for large walls, you will have to start anchoring so that you can get your climbing buddies up. After anchoring yourself with a clove hitch, it is time to set up the belay system to get your climbing partners up the surface. The tighter the rope of the belay, the easier it will be to get the other person up. This is where you use the munter hitch along with your trusted GriGri which will make up the belay system.
Communication for belay systems
As you might have realized, you have to do this anchoring and belaying over and over again over the climb. One person goes up with multiple pitches, sets up a belay and pulls the other up, and then repeat it all over again. All of this is done while hanging on to the side of the mountain. That is why communication is so important in multi-pitch climbing.
As you go up and pull your friend, they will have to take over the belay and do the same for the third person, and so on. This could be done by signaling when the belay station is being changed. If you are the second person, it is your job to start to change the belay for the next person. This allows the lead to go up to set the next anchor and belays while you are pulling up the next person.
Usually, rope signaling can be used to communicate over long distances. For example, two pulls on the main rope signals the belay station will change, so the lead can unhook their belay and start going up. Or even the use of walkie-talkies while on the climb can help climbers communicate over longer distances.
Rope management in multi-pitch climbing
Last but not least, how much the rope has to be stacked or coiled while doing the belays are important! Different pitches require different levels of rope slack as you are climbing up. A tangled-up rope anywhere along the rope might spell doom for you and your friends. A general rule of thumb is flat areas you stack the rope if you have space. Otherwise, you coil it around your lap and harness.
This is why multi-pitch is an advanced climbing technique, heavily relying on others while dangling on the side of the mountain 50 to 100 feet up in the air.
Styles of Multi Pitch Climbing
The multi-pitch climb feels like a relay system doesn’t it? There are two popular ways that people do multi-pitch climbing; the double rope style and the caterpillar style.
Double rope style
This one is for a group that is more experienced with each other doing multi-pitch climbing. The lead goes up first with two ropes, one where they will be anchored and the other being the belay system for the others to climb up. The climbers are to keep at least 15 feet apart from each other while climbing up.
As to why this is recommended for people that have experienced climbing together, it’s because two ropes mean more chances of rope mismanagement. Clear communication about how much should be slacked and how much should be coiled is important, especially for the lead who is responsible for everyone!
Caterpillar style
The caterpillar is a lot simple, where the lead climbs up with one rope and sets up the anchor and belays. Then the next person goes up, untying pitches along the way and setting the pitches with their own rope. They do this until they reach the lead and then wait for the next person. This looks like how a caterpillar moves along the surface, where the first part moves, and then the rest of the body follows in a similar fashion. The climbers are close together when doing this so if any problem occurs during the climb, they can help each other.
Multi pitch rappelling
The climb is not over until you start rappelling down. This is when you are coming down the side of the mountain surface. Never underestimate the rappelling as it might look easy but one wrong move means you slip and hit the side of the mountain!
The easiest way to rappel down is to make a loose belay on top and lower the other person while they make their pitches. The person on top now goes down following the pitches of the rappel lead. It is always the scariest for the last person to rappel down because the belay station on top is not being monitored by anyone.
See Also: How To Break In Climbing Shoes?
FAQs
Is multi-pitch climbing dangerous?
Multi-pitch climbing can be dangerous if you are not communicating with your team or if you climbing in extreme conditions like storms or snow. Prioritize safety over everything else.
Can you use multi-pitch climbing on a solo climbing?
You can solo multi-pitch climb! Instead of having to stop for others and raise them up, you can take rests in between your climbs. But remember that multi-pitch climbing is for very high surfaces so a solo climb will be dangerous.
What is the best way to learn multi-pitch climbing?
The best way to learn is to do them! Having an experienced climber and mentor will benefit you on your climbs, especially for something that requires teamwork such as multi-pitch climbs.
Final Thoughts
Overall, the multi-pitch climbing technique is for someone who is more experienced in climbing. It is not for a beginner to start doing it right away! There are gyms with climbing walls that can be helpful to learn how to multi-pitch but ultimately outdoor climbing is where you will get any worthwhile experience. It depends on communicating well and knowing how to climb together as a team. But with the help of an experienced lead and mentors, you too can learn how to multi-pitch climb.
