There are many automated machines to make out life easy. Auto belays are one of them. This machine is used in gyms for climbing practice. It can keep you away from falling damage. In this modern world, humankind has dependent on technology. Likewise, an auto belay can save your life. Even from injuries and the fear of heights.
An auto belay is a rounded shape machine that has a rope to attach climbers to protect them from falling. This machine has a spinning wheel and braking to-belay. Also, there is a sensor to read the climber’s weight and momentum to maintain descent acceleration. If a person falls, it will catch that person with the rope and slowly put them down to the ground. You will have a very exciting experience as a beginner learning wall climbing with the help of an auto belay.
Key Takeaways
- Auto belay system, and it works procedure.
- Inside and outside of an auto belay.
- Different types of auto-belay machines work differently.
- Auto belay failure, benefits, and drawbacks.
What is an Auto Belay System?
If you go to a climbing gym to practice wall climbing, you might need someone to help you belay down. It will burden others to help you and waste their time. Most of the wall climbing practice gym does not have an instructor nowadays. To fill up that need, you have to understand the auto belay system.
An auto belay system is a training tool for practicing rock mountain climbing. This system is totally automated. Belaying equipment helps you as a single person while rock climbing or mountaineering. This system allows you to clip into an auto-belay device that connects to the top of the wall. This belay system has a mechanism that automatically catches the climber’s descent movements. This system allows you to land on the ground safely.
But, how is the auto belay system really work? Let’s find out.
How do Auto Belays Work?
An auto belay device takes up the burden as you climb. Thereby refuging the need for anyone to belay on the ground. When the climber accidentally falls from up top, the device mechanically catches the climber’s descent momentum and slowly takes them off to the ground.
The device is set sturdily on the top of the climbing hill or wall. A straight rope is connected to the belay device directly. The rope is attached to a spinning wheel with a braking system. This device is so advanced that it can understand a climber’s weight and speed like a sensor.
Does a climbing auto-belay machine has a sensor? Yes, this climbing machine contains a sensor that reads the movements of the climber, which corresponds to center software that is specifically designed to recognize in real-time the actions of the climber.
Now, let’s look into different parts of the device to get a better understanding of how auto belay machine really works.
Outer Part
The surface part is a solid durable metal shell with a default handle to hang the device. This part keeps the inner machinery parts together and holds steadily to maintain the weight of a climber. Different belay machines have alternative hanging mechanisms. An average auto belay machine has a weight limit of around 300 to 315 pounds. Some advanced belay machines can bare more weight than that. But, lifting 75% of its limit is safer.
Inner Part
Inside the machine, there is a nylon lanyard coiled strongly around a spring-loaded center. This lanyard is connecting you with a help of a carabiner. There is also a sensor to sense the descent force of a climber. And a braking system to maintain momentum to prevent falling damage. Most auto belays use a similar ascension mechanism. But the action of the descent mechanism varies for different braking systems.
Different Kinds of Brake Systems
There are mainly 2 different braking mechanisms used on auto belays. Each brake is unique from others. This also affects your climbing experience. Let’s see what are those.
Magnetic Auto Belays
A magnetic braking system is the most reliable and used. You can find magnetic brakes in bullet trains, roller coasters, and elevators. This mechanism is easy to understand.
It has 2 main parts:
- Conductive brake rotors
- High-performance magnets
During a climb, a huge power spring called a retraction spring takes in the webbing. This is the same mechanism that makes measurement tape recoil. If a climber fall, the webbing wraps around the shaft and spins the entire internal assembly creating a centrifugal force inside the drum. This makes your climbing practice more interesting.
Centrifugal force pulls the conductive arms on the rotor into the magnetic field which induces little electric currents inside the drum of the brake. These unique current generate their own magnetic field back onto the spinning rotor arms which oppose the release of the webbing spool. This current braking phenomenon slows a climber’s fall to a maximum velocity, resulting in a smooth, controlled descent. The magnetic brakes are always engaged and relative to a climber’s weight.
Hydraulic Auto Belays
The hydraulic auto belay system is the oldest kind of auto belay. A hydraulic cylinder assembly is fixed behind the climbing wall and connected to a cable. Pulleys forward the cable up and over to the other side of the wall where it comes down and clips to the climber so that any fall happen will trigger and transmit the force to the hydraulic piston assembly. The hydraulic cylinders use an air-over-oil mechanism that creates positive pressure in the assembly and keeps the cable stiff as a climber ascends.
If the climber falls at any point, the force of the climber’s fall will create tension on the hydraulic cylinders to push hydraulic oil back out of the cylinders through a small fluid flow restriction valve. This act of trying to compress the fluid while offering only a small outflow valve that controls the rate of the climber’s descent. Hydraulics works with the advantage of the relationship between pressure, force, and area. The system has several hydraulic cylinder assemblies.
This belay system may seem old, but it has the safest system to practice wall climbing. Kids can use it as a beginner-friendly auto belay. Adults do not really like to get stuck using this auto belay.
Use Auto Belays with Safety
As you now know how auto belays work, you might be interested to know how to use auto belays with safety.
First, if you are new to wall climbing, you should someone to instruct you. It is necessary to know the basics. If you do not have anyone, then try to understand how others do it.
Then, wear a helmet and safety protection. Make sure to have your safety ropes not reaped off. Use the carabiner properly to lock yourself with rope.
Try to check the auto belay machine is working well by falling from 3 meters with full control.
Wear gloves and climbing shoes to make a good grip. When you achieve altitude, your hand may shake a little bit. But, do not worry if you are attached to an auto belay that is working.
What Happens if Auto Belays Stop Working?
You might think, what happens if an auto belay machine stops working? Well, it sounds scary. But if it stopped working then you may be in danger.
This mechanism helps us to have a fall-free climbing experience. But if it is not working then you will not fall directly. Different phenomena happen for different auto belays.
If the magnetic braking system stops working, then you may hang on for a while. Another scenario is, you may fall directly. But this is a rare thing to happen because of manufacturing defects.
With a hydraulic braking system, you will never fall directly. Instead, you will hang and be pulled up by the auto belay slowly. None of these auto belays are capable of killing you by letting you go all the way down.
Benefits and Drawbacks
Using an auto belay has both good sides and bad sides. If you are a beginner at climbing then it is OK. But if you already know how to climb rocks then you might not need it.
Hill climbing is not that easy and also dangerous to pursue adventures. It takes effort and a lot of practice. Knowing that hills are rough and get on your nerve will push you to get the advantage of auto belays. This machine keeps your mind calm as you know that you are not going to fall from high. Your hands will not shake. You will feel confident about climbing. People who have fear of heights will be happiest.
An auto belay machine has some bad effects as well. This machine is for beginners, but experts will deny all its benefits with zero doubt. Do you know why?
First, there is no helping support such as an auto belay system in the mountain for real. So, experts will surely avoid auto belay.
Second, auto belay will make you dependent on it. When you get too dependent, you will lose the faith in your own abilities. After a certain point, it limits your progress. Because you may slip during an actual climbing practice.
Finally, if the mechanism is broken or has a manufacturing defect, then you will surely have a really bad experience with that.
FAQs
How do auto belays fail?
Most auto-belay accidents happen because of individuals failing to completely clip into the device or forgetting to clip in entirely. Most failures are the result of not knowing how to use an auto belay properly.
Does auto-belay make it easier?
Auto belays are remarkable tools for learning new climbing skills. They allow you and your partner to practice essential skills like belaying and lead climbing while the climber is still fully protected.
Do auto belays pull you up?
An auto belay is to take up the slack of your rope. With an auto-belay, this slack is automatically pulled up or retracted as you climb. Most auto belays have fast retraction machinery which makes them ideal for speed climbing.
Final Thoughts
An auto belay has the great advantage of climbing practice without falling. This device has webbing wraps and a magnetic or hydraulic braking system. A rope from the auto belay will attach to you with a carabiner. Two different auto-belay works differently. It is best to use for kids and beginners. Not for adults and experts.
