What Does ATC Stand For Climbing – You Should To know

There are many outdoor sports that require skills and dedication. Climbing is at the top of that list. This can be both sports and hobbies at the same time. Many professional climbers claim climbing as a regular exercise.

Climbing requires many tools and equipment. As it is one of the most adventurous and risky sports at the same time, it needs to be highly considered and taken seriously. As a beginner or expert, there are a few pieces of equipment like a helmet, rope, climbing shoes, climbing harness, and backpack are must be with you before you step out for the hills. Have you heard about ATC and what it stands for climbing? A real climber must have knowledge about ATC. To know a depth discussion about ATC, keep reading.

Key Takeaways

• The ATC device is used in climbing for belaying and rappelling.
• There are different steps you must follow for belaying and rappelling as the processes are different.
• There are many benefits of using an ATC, one being it is for safety purposes in case of a fall. However, one drawback could be that it is complicated for beginners.
• GriGri is an alternative device for belaying in climbing besides ATC.
• As the ATC is a type of belaying device, it is quite dangerous if you don’t have or use one during climbing.

What Does ATC Stand For Climbing?

An ATC is a device for belaying and rappelling in climbing. It stands for “air traffic controller”. This small piece of equipment works as a device. This device helps climbers to climb to belay up or down easily. It attaches to the rope and rescues the climber from falling. Also very useful for double rope repelling.

Modern ATC has teeth to create more friction and works faster. This device is essential as it serves more than one purpose. The ATC is a type of belay device used in rock climbing for managing ropes. It works by creating friction on the rope as it passes through the device, slowing or stopping the rope’s movement. ATC is compact, lightweight, and simple to use, making them a popular choice for climbers of all levels. They are versatile and can be used for a variety of belaying techniques, including top-rope belaying, lead belaying, and rappelling.

How to Use ATC Device?

Using an ATC device is a combination of rope, carabiner, and ATC itself. To use an ATC belay device you need to create a loop of rope threaded through one of the slots. A carabiner goes through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the ATC. The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer’s or rappeller’s climbing harness. While rappelling, one end of the rope should be attached to the anchor, while the other is held in the rappeller’s brake hand.

The ATC has two slots for roping. If you only are using one rope then you use only one slot. There are two slots for using two ropes. It is not wise to thread the same rope through both slots.

The biggest mistake that anyone can make is for the climber not getting the carabiner threaded through the loop of rope. This can happen due to inattention, clothing getting in the way, bad weather conditions, etc. Without placing the carabiner in the right place, the rope will simply come out of the ATC and it won’t provide any friction to halt a fall or slow a descent. If you are using two carabiners or two ropes, as is done in different situations. Be focused to make sure both rope loops go through the carabiner or carabiners.

For Belaying

Any climber can use the ATC device safely and easily for belaying a partner by following these simple steps:

• Step 1: Grab the rope from the end that is attached to the climber, and make a small bend on it.
• Step 2: Grab the bent part of the rope and insert it into one of the dents in the belay device from the side that does not have the plastic loop. Most devices have a chamber where each of the rope ends should go, the climber or the rest of the rope. Make sure to verify the correct orientation.
• Step 3: Once the bent part of the rope goes through the ATC, use a fastening carabiner to grab both the rope and the plastic loop, and attach it to your harness’s belaying loop.
• Step 4: This mechanism is very useful where one rope goes towards the climber and the other goes to the rest of the rope.
• Step 5: With this system, you can safely belay your climber by following the proper belaying technique. Make sure you apply this belaying technique before attempting to belay someone else. It can be dangerous as it is critical for the climber’s safety. The wrong technique can lead to a fatal accident.

For Rappelling or Abseiling

One can safely and easily use the ATC device for abseiling with a double rope by following these simple steps:

• Step 1: First, set up the anchor.
• Step 2: Use both ends of the rope and make a small bend on each of the rope ends by pinching it.
• Step 3: Insert the small bends of the rope each into one of the two slots of the ATC. Make sure that the side does not have a plastic loop.
• Step 4: Once the bends of the rope are inserted and they go through the ATC, use a locking carabiner to grab both the ropes and the plastic loop. After that, attach it to your harness’s belaying loop.
• Step 5: The system should look like a “U” shape where two ropes go up towards the anchor, and the two rope ends go down to the floor.
• Step 6: With this system, you stop yourself by pulling the lower ropes down, and you can bring yourself down by reducing the strength you use to pull the ropes down. Do not let go of the rope.

Why Use ATCs for Climbing?

ATC device is a fine piece of modern technology for climbing. This device helps climbers to make their climbing easy and safe at the same time. While climbing indoors or outdoors, a climber needs both mental and physical support. An ATC device is so wonderfully useful that it acts like a great helping hand for belaying and rappelling.

There are many advantages of using ATC for climbing. Also, some disadvantages to talk about.

Benefits

• It is the primary device. So learning ATC techniques actually translates to other belay devices.
• It is the cheapest of the devices. So it is also the most common device out there. Therefore, it could be wise to learn how to use it in case it is the only option at some point, which can happen more often than with the other devices.
• It is quite versatile and can be used for several functions with ease.
• It is lightweight.
• It can do double roping rappels.

Drawbacks

• It is quite complicated for beginners.
• It does not have auto-locking capabilities. So if the belayer loses focus, consciousness, or the ability to grab the climbing rope, the climber will fall.
• It can be more tedious for the belayer in some circumstances.

Alternative of ATC Device

There is an alternative to an ATC device for climbing called GriGri. The GriGri is also a belaying device that can be more efficient and reliable. Let’s see how GriGri can replace the ATC device.

GriGri and ATC are both types of belay devices used in rock climbing. The GriGri is a mechanical assisted braking device, designed to provide more control and a higher degree of safety than traditional tube-style belay devices like the ATC. The GriGri uses a camming mechanism to grip the rope in the event of a fall, providing a secure hold. This allows the belayer to hold the rope with less physical effort, and also makes it easier to catch falls and lower the climber smoothly.

The ATC, on the other hand, is a classic tube-style belay device. It works by creating friction on the rope as it passes through the device, slowing or stopping the rope’s movement. The ATC is a versatile and simple device that is widely used by climbers of all levels.

Both devices have their pros and cons, and the choice between a GriGri and an ATC ultimately comes down to personal preference and the type of climbing being done.

Climbing Without ATC Device

ATC is a primary device for climbing.  It is not compulsory to use only ATC devices. Climbing without an ATC or any other type of belay device is extremely dangerous. There will be no one controlling the rope or stopping a fall. If a climber were to fall without a belay device, the rope would simply run through their hands and they would continue to fall until the rope reaches its end.

In this scenario, the climber could fall a significant distance and suffer serious injury or death. For this reason, it’s always important to use a proper belay device and follow safe belaying techniques when climbing. For light use and safety, the ATC device is the best choice.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

The ATC is a nice piece of belaying device for climbing. Any climber would love to have it. The ATC is a reliable and versatile belay device that is widely used by climbers. It is easy to use and provides a balancing of control over the rope during belaying and catching falls. However, it does require more physical effort from the belayer than assisted braking devices like the GriGri.

Despite this, the ATC remains a popular choice among climbers due to its affordability, durability, and ease of use. Ultimately, the choice between an ATC and other types of belay devices will depend on the individual’s climbing style, preferences, and budget.